The glued panel is a universal material that consists of 100% wood.
You will get efficient and thoughtful service from ymtc.
These are lamellas glued together (narrow bars with a width of 20 mm to 100 mm). Furniture panels are used for countertops, steps, window sills, decoration, etc.
Many woodworkers love this material because it saves time and is a factual finding for DIY enthusiasts.
In this article, we share 10 main features of glued panels that you need to pay attention to.
1. Select the type of wood based on the needs of your project.
Glued panels are produced from almost all possible types of wood, so the choice is vast:
For structural elements, you will choose pine; for the interior - oak and beech. If you need maximum strength, take ash; if you create something unique, walnut is the best option.
An example of a walnut glued panel
2. Select the lamella of the furniture panel
Wood glued panels often come in two types - solid and fingerjoint.
Fingejoint panels consist of a large number of elements that are glued together at the sides and ends; it looks like parquet. Such a shield is considered optimal for inexpensive stairs, as well as tabletops, where special strength is needed, which is created by a large number of gluings. The solid-lamella board is glued only on the sides; it looks more like solid wood. It is ideal for window sills; its appearance is familiar on steps.
An example of a glued panel made of finger-jointed oak
3. Pay attention to the thickness
Wooden panels are made in thicknesses of 12, 16 mm, 20 mm, 30 mm, and 40 mm. 40 mm looks massive and solid; such a shield is heavy. 20mm has a reasonably thin appearance. 30mm is the optimal thickness for most projects; it looks both thick and organic. 12 and 16 mm are used for special situations.
The photo shows packs combined of two panels 20 mm thick
4. Don't avoid the opportunity to save on thickness
Each manufacturer sifts out the material - after it, a glued panel with a thickness of 18 mm, 19 mm, 27 mm, 38 mm appears. These boards are very similar to the original ones (20 mm, 30 mm and 40 mm) but are 10% cheaper. Because the cost of a furniture board is always calculated based on the cubic capacity of the sheet.
Wide selection = many sizes = savings on waste
5. Decide on quality
There are infinite quality types of furniture panels: AA, AB, BB, AC, BC, CC, and Rustic. This is the most common gradation, but there are others. If the most important thing for you is the appearance of the board without knots and sapwood on both sides, you need AA and AB. If you don't mind small knots, you can take BB. If you are okay with sapwood, you can pay attention to AC and BC. In "Rustic" quality, there is often no sapwood, but there are many knots, the most saturated type of wood.
This is what rustic oak looks like
6. Minimize waste
Any furniture panel can be cut into the number of parts you need. Thus, there is often no need to take several small panels - you can take one large one and cut it into the required dimensions. This is especially true for fingerjoint panels because their price per cubic meter does not change depending on the length.
The more panel area you use, the less wood will go to waste.
Large glued panel made of ash, cut into two parts
7. Minimize waste, part 2
Remember about another wonderful property of furniture board - it can be glued together. Glueing has its aspects - it can only be in width, that is, only between the side parts. However, this is often enough to use the purchased material more effectively.
This is what glueing elements together look like
The company is the world’s best Edge Glued Panel supplier. We are your one-stop shop for all needs. Our staff are highly-specialized and will help you find the product you need.
8. Pay attention to the shape of the shield when purchasing
The shield should be even and smooth, without bends. Using a "banana" or "boomerang" shaped shield is problematic, especially if you do not have special equipment to correct the shape.
If there are no gaps between the shields in a stack, then they are of the correct shape
9. Consider slats when purchasing
Lamellas are small sticks of wood that create a furniture panel and must be perfectly glued together. Otherwise, the shield may crack during processing.
Take a closer look at the glueing areas - no gaps should be there.
Selection of lamellas for glueing together. Ideal lamellas and good gluing are the keys to the reliability of the glued wood panel
10. Remember that furniture panels are always offered in "black sizes."
The actual panel is always a few millimetres larger than the size on the price list. These additional millimetres are given for possible waste when formatting into a perfectly flat, rectangular shape.
Formatting the furniture board to the ideal, “clean size”
Glued panels is the central area of Stragendo OU. We will happily select the needed materials and calculate your project based on our stock. If you need additional processing, we will cut it to your size, glue it, sand it and cover it to your order.
Ken Collier, an editor at The Family Handyman, will demonstrate one technique for edge gluing boards. This basic woodworking skill will help you in many different woodworking projects. All you need are the boards you want to join, clamps, glue and wax paper. Read on to learn nine additional tips that will help you perfect the process of edge gluing boards.
1 / 9Gluing boards together to make wider panels is a handy woodworking skill that’s easy to learn. Woodworkers with well-equipped shops often buy rough lumber and then rip, plane and joint the lumber to get straight edges for tight-fitting joints. However, you can get the same results by carefully choosing boards from a home center or lumberyard.
Look for boards with similar color and grain patterns. Then, sight down the edge of each board to be sure it’s straight. Finally, make sure the boards are flat and not twisted.
2 / 9For projects like tabletops where one side of the glued-up boards will be more visible, choose the best-looking side of each board to face up. If the boards vary in shade, arrange them so differences blend as well as possible. Don’t put a dark board between two light ones, for example. Finally, flip the boards end for end and shuffle them until the grain patterns look natural and pleasing.
When you’re happy with the results, draw a “V” across the boards with chalk or pencil. If you’re assembling several panels, also number them. When it’s time to begin gluing the boards together, simply align the marks to ensure they are properly arranged.
3 / 9Use white or yellow woodworking glue for interior projects. For projects exposed to moisture, use water-resistant glue. Spread a 1/8- to 3/16-in.- diameter bead of glue along the edge of one board. For an even bead that’s perfectly centered on the edge, hold the glue bottle with one hand and the spout with the other hand. Move the glue bottle along the board quickly, letting your index finger ride along the board as a gauge to keep the bead of glue centered.
Use a spring clamp to hold the board upright while you apply the glue. You only need to apply glue to one of the two boards being joined.
Using too much glue won’t adversely affect the strength of the joint, but it will make a mess that will require extra time to clean up. The goal is to apply just enough glue so that when the boards are clamped, there will be an even 1/16-in.-wide bead of squeezed-out glue along the length of the joint. Also, try to avoid getting glue on the face of the boards, which will cause trouble with finishing later.
4 / 9Press the two boards together and slide them back and forth against each other. This is the best way to spread the glue evenly on the edges of both boards. Cover the top of the clamps with masking tape to avoid staining the boards and to make cleanup easier.
5 / 9Separate the boards and inspect the edges. The goal is to have a thin, even layer of glue on each edge. If there are areas where the glue is thin or missing, apply a little more glue to these sections before clamping the boards together.
6 / 9A good glue joint should have an even bead of squeezed-out glue along its entire length. Add clamps to areas where there is no squeezed-out glue.
7 / 9You’ll save yourself tons of sanding by making sure the top surfaces are as close to perfectly flush as possible. A couple of tricks make this easier.
First, glue and clamp only one joint at a time. It takes a little longer because you’ll have to wait for the glue to set up before removing the clamps and adding the next board. It’s much easier to get good results if you focus on one joint at a time.
Second, start clamping at one end and work your way along the boards, making sure the top surfaces are flush as you tighten the clamps. Feel the surface with your finger and adjust the boards up or down until the tops are flush with each other. Then, apply enough clamping pressure to close any gaps and squeeze out about a 1/16- to 1/8-in. glue bead.
8 / 9At room temperature and average humidity, the squeezed-out glue will be ready to scrape in about 20 minutes. Wait until the glue changes from liquid to a jelly-like consistency. Then, scrape it off with a chisel or putty knife. If the clamps are in the way, you can safely remove them after about 20 minutes in normal conditions. Handle the glued-up panels carefully, though, since the glue won’t reach maximum strength for several more hours.
9 / 9Glue-ups with bows are impossible to flatten after the glue sets. Hold a straightedge across the glued-up boards to make sure they’re flat. Flatten them by driving shims between the boards and the clamps. If the assembly is bowed up, add another clamp on top of the boards. Place strips of wood between the clamps and the boards to protect the edges of the boards.
Contact us to discuss your requirements of wood chamfer strip. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.