By slowing the transfer of heat between your house and the outdoors, insulation helps keep your living space cooler in the summer and toastier in the winter—all while shrinking your energy bills. Adding insulation to a typical home’s attic, flooring, basement, and crawl spaces can lower total energy costs by an average of 11 percent if you also plug unwanted air leaks.
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That’s partly because 9 out of 10 homes in the U.S. are under-insulated, according to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), with older residences especially likely to need the extra care. Knowing what sort of insulation to use and where and how to install it for the best results can be tricky.
We’re here to guide you through the process.
Because warm air rises, the attic is the best place to start, particularly for those in colder climates. But any living space that’s adjacent to the outdoors or, say, a transitional space such as a garage can benefit from insulation, creating a better thermal barrier around your home.
Ideally, you want a barrier that prevents the flow of air in and out, too. That means putting sealing around windows and door frames, recessed lighting, the joints of HVAC ducts, and the entrance to the attic, among other common trouble spots. You can search for leaks yourself or hire an energy auditor and then make things snug with relatively inexpensive caulking, weather stripping, foam sealant, or foam gaskets.
Other high-priority areas for insulation generally include exterior walls, basements, crawl spaces, roofs, and floors above unfinished spaces. Here are some signs that your insulation may need an upgrade: high energy bills, varying temperatures across rooms, routinely frozen pipes, pest problems, floors and walls that are cold or damp to the touch, and ice dams on the lower portion of your roof.
If the snow on your roof melts much faster than the snow on your neighbor’s roof, you likely need more attic insulation. You don’t have to wait for the next snowstorm, though, to make the right call—attic insulation is valuable in every season.
It’s difficult to tackle any insulation project without first understanding the concept of R-value, which measures the ability of insulation to resist the transfer of heat. The higher the R-value, the more powerfully the material in the product insulates. Every option—from fiberglass rolls to blown-in cellulose—displays its R-value on the packaging, allowing you to calculate the total R-value reached in a specific area of your home.
We’re talking simple addition: Say you buy one layer of R-19 fiberglass batting and stack another layer of R-30 fiberglass batting on top. That gives you a total R-value of R-49 in that space. You can even calculate the R-value of existing insulation by measuring its depth, noting the style of insulation (see below), and then finding the typical R-value per inch of that material. Say you find 14 inches of blown-in cellulose insulation, which has a typical R-value of around R-3.5 per inch, in your attic. That means your attic is insulated to about R-49, or 14 x 3.5. Keep in mind that you can add up the R-values of different types of insulation.
So what’s the ideal R-value for the attic in your house? That’s largely a matter of geography. You want to find out what climate zone you reside in and then look at the recommended R-value. In balmy South Florida, for example, installing one layer of R-30 fiberglass insulation in an attic is considered sufficient. But in wintry Wisconsin, you may want to add R-60 insulation to a previously uninsulated attic, requiring you to stack two layers of R-30 fiberglass batting.
Insulation comes in a variety of styles, each with its own strengths and weaknesses.
To start, you may want to consider the ideal structure. Batting insulation, for example, comes in flat, precut blankets of different sizes and thicknesses, allowing you to simply lay, stack, or fit it between the joists, studs, and rafters in ceilings, floors, and walls. Insulation sold in barrel-like rolls must be unspooled and cut to fit using a utility knife. It’s fairly easy to do but does require a little extra effort.
All in all, batts and rolls are versatile, easy to install, and relatively inexpensive. You’ll find them at almost any home improvement store.
By comparison, loose-fill—or blown-in—insulation requires equipment that you can rent from a home improvement store. Often made of unstructured fiberglass or cellulose, loose-fill fits snugly in odd-shaped holes and insulates hard-to-access wall cavities with relative ease. But if not packed densely enough, it’s more prone to settling over time, lowering its effectiveness. Loose-fill insulation can also be trickier to remove or shift around when you need to access the space.
Your next big decision has to do with the thermal materials used in the insulation you’re considering. Options vary based on your needs, including budget, the R-value, the size and shape of the area you plan to insulate, and factors such as the space’s moisture levels. Here are the pros and cons of the most common insulation materials.
Pros: Fiberglass insulation—made of molten glass that’s been spun or blown into fibers that trap air and slow heat transfer—is by far the most common choice, making up about 70 percent of the insulation market. It’s inexpensive, easy to install, and versatile. It comes in batts, rolls, and loose-fill style.
Cons: It has a modest R-value and is more permeable to air than, say, spray foam insulation, so effective sealing before insulation is critical. While the fiberglass particles in some new products are less troublesome than those of old, they still can cause irritation to your eyes, skin, and respiratory system. So it’s good to wear goggles, gloves, full-coverage clothing, and a respirator when installing or handling the materials.
Typical R-value: R-3 to R-4 per inch of thickness, though high-density fiberglass can go higher.
Where commonly used: Many places in a house, including attics, walls, floors, and basements.
Cost: $0.30-$1.50 per square foot, on average
Pros: Cellulose insulation, made of recycled paper and wood products, is typically offered in the loose-fill format. It conforms easily to unusually shaped spaces and hard-to-reach crevices, making it particularly handy for use inside finished walls or attics where you may want to insulate around pipes or HVAC equipment. It’s typically treated with the mineral borate to improve fire and pest resistance.
Cons: The material is more prone to retaining moisture and settling over time if not packed densely enough, which may reduce its effectiveness and require you to replace it. It can also be very dusty, so you’ll want to wear a respirator while installing it.
Typical R-value: 3.1 to 3.8 per inch of thickness.
Where commonly used: Attics and wall cavities.
Cost: $0.60-$2.30 per square foot, on average
Pros: Foam board, aka rigid foam, is made from fibrous materials or plastic foam that has been shaped into stiff boards. It has a high insulating value relative to its thickness. It’s also particularly moisture- and pest-resistant, making it a good choice for basements, crawl spaces, and exterior walls. There are three main types: polyiso, which has the highest R-value; extruded polystyrene (XPS), which is particularly moisture-resistant; and expanded polystyrene (EPS), which is often the cheapest.
Cons: Foam board insulation can be harder to install snugly in unusually shaped spaces, leaving gaps for air to flow. To create an effective air and moisture seal, you need to tape all seams between the boards. This option also tends to be pricier.
Typical R-value: R-3.8 and R-6.8 per inch of thickness, depending on the type.
Where commonly used: Basement and crawl space walls, and as continuous insulation on a house’s exterior.
Cost: $0.25-$2 per board foot, on average
Pros: Once sprayed, polyurethane foam sets, expands, and hardens. It’s admirably airtight—often negating the need for additional sealing—and moisture-proof, making it perfect for hard-to-fill nooks and crannies. The open-cell option has an R-value comparable to fiberglass, but closed-cell foam is denser, more rigid, and more moisture-resistant, with a higher R-value.
Cons: Closed-cell spray foam almost always requires professional installation. You and your family must stay away from your house for at least 24 hours as it cures. While you can find environmentally friendly options, many closed-cell spray foams use blowing agents that deplete the ozone layer and contribute to global warming.
Typical R-value: R-3.2 to R-7.5 per inch of thickness.
Where commonly used: Inside unfinished wall cavities, attics, and basements, and as continuous insulation on a house’s exterior.
Cost: $1-$2 per square foot, on average
Attic
The attic is where you’ll get the biggest return on your investment. It’s also one of the easiest areas to tackle on your own. Start by installing insulation between the joists that run along an unfinished floor. You can even add more on top of what’s there. (If the existing insulation is faced—meaning it has a moisture barrier attached to it—you don’t want the layer you add to be faced, too.) Aim for at least 13 to 14 inches of attic insulation if you live in a warmer climate and 16 to 18 inches in colder climates, assuming an insulation value around R-3. One good general rule: You should have enough insulation to cover the floor joists, making them no longer visible.
Adding insulation to the living space of a finished home can get pricey, sometimes requiring professional help to remove and replace drywall or exterior siding. To determine how well your walls are insulated, you can cut holes in the drywall or use a thermal imaging camera. Blown-in fiberglass or cellulose insulation and spray foam are common choices for wall cavities. They can be used in conjunction with foam board sheathing on the exterior. Insulating interior walls can help with soundproofing and confining space heating to certain areas of the home. It’s also beneficial in condos or apartments that share a wall with a unit that sits empty or unconditioned.
Basements can account for about 25 percent of a dwelling’s heat loss. One way to counter that is by insulating the walls and ceiling with options like foam board, fiberglass-faced batting, or spray foam. To avoid moisture problems, check for wet walls and water on the floor before starting and address any large drainage issues.
If you’re using insulation other than XPS rigid foam or spray foam, consider adding some sort of vapor barrier as well. This prevents the movement and accumulation of moisture, which can degrade insulation, cause mold and mildew, reduce air quality, and damage the structural integrity of your home. You can install vapor barrier sheets, often made of plastic, foil, or silicone, alongside the insulation or go with “faced” or “kraft” insulation, which has a built-in vapor barrier. Either way, the vapor barrier typically faces whichever side of the structure is warmer.
Any crawl space beneath the ground floor is another prime spot for heat transfer. In some cases, the floor above it has sheathing that may conceal pre-existing insulation. You can install more on the space’s ceiling and walls. Once again, addressing moisture and potential water drainage issues first is key. Some people opt for what’s known as a crawl space “encapsulation,” which typically involves the installation of a vapor barrier around the entire space for a more moisture-proof seal.
How Much Insulation Do You Need?
This depends on where you live, the suggested R-value for specific areas of your home, and the size of the space. But it’s pretty easy to figure out: The Department of Energy offers a handy map organized into climate zones. Once you identify your climate zone, you can find the recommended R-value for common insulation projects. For example, an uninsulated attic should end up between R-30 and R60, depending on your region.
Once you know your target R-value, you can use the R-values provided for insulation products to plot out your project. For example, if you’re installing fiberglass batting in your attic that provides a total R-value of 30, you would need to put down two layers to reach R-60—plenty for a cold climate. Next, you calculate how many batts, rolls, or bags of loose-fill you need by measuring the total square footage of the space.
On the bright side, insulation brings a significant return on investment by reducing what you spend on heating and cooling—the two biggest slices of your energy bill. As we mentioned, sealing and insulating a home saves around 11 percent on total energy expenses—or around $200 a year when looking at the most recent data on average U.S. household energy expenses.
If you spend $700 on insulation, you will likely get a return on your investment in a little over three years while reaping the benefits in comfort on day one. The colder the climate you live in and the less insulation you start with, the higher your savings will be. The federal government and many state and local governments and utilities offer rebate programs and tax incentives on home insulation. You can claim a 30 percent federal tax credit, up to $1,200 per year, for certain insulation and weatherization upgrades, including material and labor costs. A number of other incentives are available via state governments and local utilities.
A professional home energy audit is a relatively cheap way to determine precisely where your home needs more insulation. It can pinpoint air leaks that need patching first, too. You can find a certified energy auditor through your utility company, state and local government agencies, or resources like this Residential Energy Services Network directory. Some insulation professionals offer a preliminary home energy audit as part of an installation package. The Department of Energy recommends that a pro auditor conduct a blower door test and a thermographic test. Energy audits are eligible for a 30 percent federal tax credit, up to $150.
The EPA recommends contractors who have been vetted by experts like the Building Performance Institute, Owen Corning’s Certified Energy Expert program, or its own Home Performance Program. Your local utility may also provide a list of vetted experts. Make sure that whoever you hire has insurance, a license to work in your state, and the training to complete your specific installation project.
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It’s good to have at least three contractors provide cost estimates. Ask them questions, like whether they plan to seal air leaks first, take extra steps like insulating your attic’s hatch, and have the equipment needed to insulate an older home. And once the project is complete, monitor your energy bill, as well as indicators like temperature disparity across rooms, to see if the work was sufficient. If the savings aren’t substantial—or your home remains uncomfortable in the hottest and coldest parts of the year—it may be time to add insulation to another part or bring in another professional to complete the job. A well-done insulation project should make your home more comfortable (and save you money) year-round.
It doesn’t matter if you’re building a brand-new home or looking to improve the energy efficiency of your existing home — home insulation is important for every homeowner. Insulating a house can improve a home’s energy efficiency by preventing heat loss in the winter and heat gain in the summer. In the end, that’s going to save a lot of money on a homeowner’s utility bills.
Older homes can especially benefit from more insulation, but new construction projects also need to be insulated to save homeowners big-time on their energy bills.
There are many different ways to go about insulating your home. We’ll walk you through some of the most common methods and insulating materials, and we’ll take a look at R-values, the metric used to differentiate between how well different materials insulate.
We’ll also identify which parts of your home are the most important to insulate and give you an idea how much of this you can do on your own — and what parts of home insulation might be best left to the professionals.
Your home is your castle, but that castle has a lot of opportunities for the air you may have so carefully climate-controlled to leak out, or for the temperature outside to affect the temperature inside.
Your walls and roof don’t act as perfect air seals, and as a result, air leakage can occur. Your home’s airflow, and the quality of your home’s air sealing, are important factors in your daily quality of life.
Every homeowner has a preferred temperature they like to keep their home, but the temperature outside can be at odds with that. By insulating your house, you can keep your home warmer in the frigid months of winter and cooler in the high temperatures of summer, and spend less on your utility bills in the process.
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This is the question that probably drew you to thermal insulation in the first place — how much can insulating save on your monthly energy bills? Heating and cooling costs can make up a significant portion of a homeowner’s monthly budget, which means this is an area ripe for energy savings.
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) estimates that “homeowners can save an average of 15% on heating and cooling costs (or an average of 11% on total energy costs)” by insulating and air sealing their homes. Those numbers can rise dramatically if you live in an older home with poorer thermal insulation to begin with.
Bottom line: Home insulation is a home improvement project that can boost your energy efficiency while saving you lots of cash.
Home insulation doesn’t just save you and your family money, it also saves energy. For those who are trying to go green, insulation’s energy savings make it a no-brainer.
Well-insulated homes are much more energy-efficient than poorly insulated homes because home insulation acts as a way to prevent energy loss. If your house stays warm when you want it to be warm, or cool when you want it to be cool, you’ll be running your air conditioning or heating far less — and that’s where those energy savings come in.
Before we dive into all the different options you have for insulating your home, we need to talk about an important concept in the world of home insulation: R-values.
An R-value measures how resistant a material is to the conduction of heat. A material with a low R-value will have a tough time stopping heat transfer if there’s a significant temperature difference at play.
The higher the R-value of a thermal insulation material, the better that material will be at preventing heat loss (or heat gain).
The perfect R-value for your home varies depending on your local climate and which part of the house you’re installing it in. A regional R-value map can recommend the specific R-value you’ll need depending on where in the country you live.
Also, tailor the R-value of your thermal insulation materials to the specific places in your house in which they’re being installed. Attic insulation requires a higher r-value than your floor (which makes sense, if you remember that heat rises).
Generally speaking, though, you’re going to want an insulation material with low thermal conductivity.
There are many different ways to go about insulating your home, and many different types of home insulation materials (with many different R-values and thermal resistances). Let’s walk through some common types of home insulation materials.
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Think of batt insulation as a kind of blanket for your house. This insulating material can come in a number of different varieties, including mineral wool (sometimes called rock wool), plastic or natural fibers, and fiberglass batts — all of which make excellent thermal insulators.
Batts are great for homeowners who like to take on DIY home renovation projects because they’re easy to install — just roll them out. They’re sized to fit in between wall joists, which means less trimming to size and an easier installation. Batts are less expensive than many other insulation materials, and can be installed in unfinished walls, under floors, or in ceilings to prevent air leaks.
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If batt insulation was a blanket for your house, then loose-fill insulation might be the pillows. Loose-fill insulation is a lot like what it sounds: a mass of insulation material — either mineral wool/rock wool, cellulose insulation, or fiberglass insulation — that is spread or sometimes blown in to the area you’d like insulated.
Loose-fill insulation is great if you’re insulating an older home, since it’s a lot easier to spread inside a finished wall than, say, batt insulation. Many attics or unfinished rooms are good places for loose-fill insulation, as are odd-shaped or difficult-to-access locations in your home.
If you’re looking for a bit more structure with your thermal insulation installation, consider using foam board insulation. These boards (often made from polystyrene) are rigid and can be installed in unfinished walls, floors, ceilings, and unvented roofs.
If these are installed on the exterior side of a wall, they need to be covered with some sort of weatherproof layer. If a polystyrene insulation board is installed on the interior of a wall, it’s going to need a flame retardant covering to stay up to code.
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Spray foam insulation is another great option for insulating an already-built home. There are a variety of different installation methods here, but often the foam is sprayed inside finished wall cavities as a liquid, where it then expands into a solid foam which can form a protective wall insulation air barrier.
While most spray foam insulation tends to be polyurethane, there are two different types of polyurethane spray foam insulation to look out for: open-cell foam and closed-cell foam.
Open-cell foam is less expensive, but has a lower R-value and can’t be used in basements or low-lying areas where it might get wet. By contrast, closed-cell foam is denser, more expensive, and has a higher R-value.
Overall, spray foam insulation tends to be a more expensive option, but it also has higher R-values than most batts. Your specific house’s convection quirks and your local climate will help you decide which building material to choose.
Your house has a surprisingly large number of places for heat to escape in cold weather or enter in the summertime or if you live in a year-round warm climate.
Crawl space insulation, attic insulation, and exterior wall insulation should be your first three stops on your home insulation journey. These represent the bottom, sides, and top of your house, and make up your home’s thermal boundaries. They’re the places where most of your heat transfer — meaning either heat loss or heat gain — is going to occur.
If your house has a basement, don’t neglect those basement walls. A quick reminder: if you use spray foam, make sure to go with the closed cell foam option to help lock out moisture.
Home insulation can be a home improvement project to tackle yourself, provided you do your research and preferably talk to a professional to get a plan in place.
Batt insulation is especially DIY friendly, so if you’re unsure about which cell foam to go with or what foam board to buy, sticking with batts isn’t a bad idea. Polystyrene insulation can also be done yourself, provided you install either the fire retardant layer or the weatherproofing layer, depending on the location.
You now have all the information you need to start insulating your home, and reaping the energy and cost savings. Home insulation is what keeps our living spaces comfortable, but they need an installer like you, or a professional insulation contractor of your choice.
Whatever the age of your current home, if you haven’t already taken a good hard look at home insulation since you’ve lived there, it’s probably a good idea to take that look now.
As you embark on this home improvement journey, keep in mind that the R-values you’ll need will depend on your local climate as well as the location in your house you’re insulating.
You also have plenty of different insulating materials to choose from. Feel free to bookmark this page as you narrow down your list of options.
In the end, you should be left with a house that’s a lot more energy efficient, and a utility bill that’s noticeably smaller—and those are things worth celebrating!
For more information on all things energy, stay tuned to the Tara Energy blog.
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