Ahoy swaylockians. I’m working on my Windansea special thanks to Bill Thrailkill! I started the white resin panels. I’ve never done full resin panels before and am having problems with the resin sheeting on the rails. I used my normal glossing technique and have never had this problem before. What may be the cause of this? More importantly is there any way to fix this without sanding off the whole panel and starting over? I did as much research as humanly possible on resin panels before starting this. Thanks for the help swaybros! Other than this issue I’m pumped on how the board is coming out. Many thanks to Bill Thrailkill, WideAwake, and Dave Town for all your help and inspiration!
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Resin is thick (heavy) and taking too long to kick.
Rail wrap is tricky. Load it with pigment and kick it HOT. 10minute kick time would be ideal. I know some guys who drop in some cobalt but that can be another nightmare if not done correctly.
Sand the hotcoat so it’s dead flat smooth.
I find it best to use gloss resin for panels (some use hotcoat resin)
A spot fix on those would be tricky too. You’ll most likely see your different color mixes on white.
Someone else may have some better tricks or contradictory info and it works for them. I do what works for me.
Surfer o - if these are your first panels it will be a lot easier to tape them off before the rail.
It will look good with solid white panels. Clean and subtle
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If you pan pull a clean tape line - pull a line where the sag is and sand it back so the rail doesn’t have pigment, then clean the edge with a razor with sand paper wrapped around it.
You may be able to save it without having to redo it all.
I’d try that if it was my board. Atleast a small section to see if it would be easy enough.
Awesome that is a great idea! I’m gonna give that a try. I don’t really have anything to lose by giving that a shot. Worse come to worse I’ll just sand them all off and start again without wrapping the rail. I wanted to do full panels initially because my deckside volan cutlaps came out pretty bad. Wanted to cover them up haha. But ill do the smaller panels and whatever shows through will get a good smear of wax!
Going to be pretty tough to sand back hardened resin in a straight line. I’m surprised that no one suggested just sanding the sags. It could be that you may be able to sand flat the sags without ruining your pigment job. That would have been the first thing I would have attempted. If you can get rid of the sags without actually sanding the pigment off you will only need to lightly sand the rest of the panel and then Gloss the whole board. A lot of what was said in previous posts remains true. Pigmented resins goes off slower and so requires a hotter kick. More MEK. And yes a little Cobalt always helps pigmented resin. A little goes a long way with Cobalt. Resin or Paint. Panels should always be glossed over. Preferably with Reichold. You did nothing out of the ordinary by using Silmar, provided your intent was to gloss over it. Silmar laminating resin is not a finish Gloss. Yes thru the years the old timers would do a panel or rail and not gloss over it. That is true. But if you are actually going to Surf the board you will want a protective Gloss over it. Otherwise it wears and chips. You just didn’t kick your resin panel hot enough.
Hey guys I taped off a clean line on the deck and sanded back the saggy part of the panels. It came out pretty good IMO. Then I did panels on the bottom and then glossed the board with my ghetto gloss haha. I still have never splurged for reichold gloss. On my next board I surely will. I’m pretty happy with how the board is coming along so far. I’m still trying to decide if I’m going to polish it or just sand/polish the rails and ride it. I have never done a full polish before. Once again I would like to thank all those who helped me with this project, especially Bill Thrailkill for walking me through the build and sharing all his knowledge and templates with me! Here are some pics
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