Liquid cooling your CPU and other components can be a gratifying experience not only for your self-confidence as a PC builder or enthusiast but also increases the longevity of your overclocked components in the long term.
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Would you believe that, until last month, I ran the same CPU and motherboard running at 5.2ghz 24/7 while compiling development code and playing games for almost a decade? The only reason I could do that was because of my custom water cooling loop keeping everything at decent temperatures – I didn’t even change the coolant once in that time.
Over the course of this stupidly long custom PC watercooling guide, you will become a watercooling GURU. Armed with enough information to make an informed decision on the components you will need to buy to watercool your gaming PC.
There are a lot of questions I get asked that I find myself repeating so I put them all together here. Hopefully, these common PC watercooling questions and answers can clear up any confusion you may have.
If I missed something out, let us know in the comments and we can answer your question.
There is a famous saying that a building without a solid foundation cannot stand, and the same is true for your watercooling loop. Choosing the right parts is crucial to the success of your custom watercooling build and subsequent overclocking efforts.
Let us take a look at all of the various components involved in a custom watercooling loop.
Primarily constructed of copper (sometimes silver), watercooling blocks sit on your PC components drawing heat away. CPU, GPU, RAM and Motherboard blocks are doing the brunt of the work in the loop of drawing the heat away from your components to your radiators.
Names to look out for: EKWB, Phankteks, Alphacool and Corsair.
Top Tip: Mounting your blocks at different orientations can yield better results on some CPUs, find out more here
The pump is one of the most crucial parts of any watercooling build, there are lots on the market, but over the years, a couple of specific pumps have stood out from the crowd, consistently performing above the rest.
Names to look out for: XSPC, EKWB (EK DDC, EK-Quantum), Alphacool
Update: I have since invested in a EKWB dual DDC 3.2 PWM pump. It’s great to run them at near silent operating speeds and still maintain a very competitive 24/7 overclock. The added security of have a redundant pump sweetens the deal making sure that if one pump dies, the rest of the system won’t overheat and die.
In short, the radiator is responsible for dissipating heat from your watercooling loop. It does this by spreading heat over its surface allowing the fans to carry the heat away from the loop.
There are a few key points you should be looking at when you buy a radiator;
FPI or ‘Fins Per Inch’ is one of the things you need to be looking out for when selecting your radiator. Size does play a big role in any radiator’s cooling efficiency, but fin density is equally, if not more, important. The only problem this setup faces is that it can be quite noisy at full chaps due to the use of high-static pressure fans – without them, a high fin-density radiator will perform poorly.
I will always opt to go with more fins per inch and invest in static pressure cooling fans when overclocking as they provide superior cooling efficiency.
Top Tip: If noise is a huge issue for you, then Alphacool’s NexXxos radiators are solid performers and reasonably quiet also due to their lower fin density but of course, this comes at the cost of raw performance.
Watercooling reservoirs come in all shapes and sizes but all serve a primary purpose; to provide filling ports for you to keep your system topped up and, in some cases to make your build look insane.
Custom PC watercooling reservoirs are available in a few options.
Things soon get confusing when it comes to tubing, especially if you are new to PC water cooling. First off, there are many different dimensions with various inner and outer diameters. Once you know the diameter you will be using, you have to choose between acrylic and flexible tubing; both have their advantages and disadvantages, so choose wisely.
If you are a beginner and this will be your first build, go with flexible tubing the first time around, as it is a lot more forgiving if you do make a mistake.
No matter which tube diameter you decide to go for, your end choice will not affect your loop’s overall performance or temperature only the aesthetics of the build.
While you cannot cool anything beyond ambient case temperature without using sub-zero cooling methods, having solid fans that provide enough static pressure will help keep temperatures under control when pushing the boundaries.
Standard case fans will keep your components reasonably cool at idle, but any pressure and heat will start to build up in the loop resulting in high temperatures after prolonged use.
The only downside of using a high-CFM fan is noise. As more air is passing through the fins, it is natural for more noise to be produced; as long as you have a fan controller, it should not be a huge issue.
A great high static pressure fan that is readily available and look great is Corsair’s 120mm and 140mm SP Range. They are shipped with all of Corsair’s AIO Hydro coolers, and I use them on all of my daily systems.
If you don’t care about noise then definitely check out Delta fans, they provide unprecedented performance with some pushing upto 190CFM! they are noisy at full-chaps cranking out 48Dba but grab a fan controller and you will do fine, they really are the best fan money can buy for any serious overclocker.
There are two types of fixture or ‘barb’.
Compression fitting
A compression fitting provides a smoother build process and looks much nicer; however, if you fiddle around too much in your case, they can come loose and leak. That does not mean they are not safe; you have to take more care when building your system, making sure all connections are as tight as they can be.
Compression fittings are my go-to choice for water-cooling builds. If you have a small case where build space is limited, angled compression fittings can make the whole process easier and much cleaner.
Standard Jubilee Barb
The second type of barb is your standard affair, where the tubing slides over the end and is fastened into place using jubilee clips. As a beginner, this is how I started to reduce points of failure and the potential for leaks. You can get them really tight, making it nearly impossible for any water to leak unless you didn’t screw in the barb tight enough.
Top Tip Generally speaking, each section in the loop will require two barbs, an inlet, and an outlet. However, sometimes pumps come with moulded cases that already have barbs for you to use.
The cheapest water cooling fluid around (and best) is osmosis or distilled water. You cannot just use it straight from the tap because of the high mineral content.
For flexible tubing systems, you must use distilled water and treat the water with a solution that neutralizes the Ph level or even use a silver kill coil that kills bacteria. It keeps the loop free of gunk and performing at its peak.
If you want your liquid cooling loop to glow under UV cathode lighting, then buy tubing that is already pre-coloured and UV treated; it will not fade and will always look vibrant
For people building with acrylic tubing, it is safe to use the huge range of fluids that are premixed with colorants. The hard polymers in the acrylic tubing most colorants in the tubing do not damage the tubing.
So your parts have arrived, and its build-time, but where do you start? Let’s run through the checklist; if there is anything you do not have, go to your local hardware store to try to source the parts or order them online! It means a delayed build but will be worth it. After all, you can’t build anything if you forgot a vital PC water-cooling component.
Everything marked with an asterisk is optional.
If you mentally checked yes to all of the above, let’s get started.
One of the most asked questions, even amongst the pros, is what the best water cooling loop order is? The truth is that temperatures throughout the loop will only vary +/- 1*c at any one time and will not make or break a record-breaking overclock. My advice has always been to set it up however it looks best with one exception –
The only requirement when you are constructing your loop is to make sure the reservoir is feeding the pump (and positioned above); it will make bleeding the system easier, but it will prolong the life of the pump.
A dry pump is a dead pump!
Leak testing may seem like a tedious, unnecessary step. After all, you fastened up your compression fittings or jubilee clips as tight as they will go – “It can’t possibly leak” but trust me when I say those are the famous last words.
When you first build the loop, do it inside the case. Then once completed remove all the components and use the paper clip PSU trick to get the water pump running directly without anything else plugged in.
Even after you leak-tested and put your components in, it is always wise to monitor the situation, pad barbs and the top of the graphics cards with kitchen paper and make sure no further leaks have appeared. When moving tubing around, sometimes it can dislodge the barb and make it loose, resulting in a small leak that gets worse and worse – be safe and double-check everything.
A mistake plenty of people have made before and only applies to leucite top cooling blocks and reservoirs.
If you over tighten your barbs, there is a huge possibility that you may end up cracking your CPU block or reservoir. It is easily done, so take your time.
When using compression fittings, remember to allow some when you are securing your tubes into place. As you tighten them up, the barbs will slightly tighten as well.
Using the correct screws is so important when fixing your fans onto your radiator. If the screws are too long, its possible to puncture the radiator and cause a leak.
Many manufacturers have moved cooling lines further in as well as putting blanking plates below the screws to stop this from happening. Still, if you are on a budget, many radiators do not factor this into their design.
Never underestimate the power and importance of quality airflow through the case. It does not just apply to people cooling on with air alone, but to us, the watercooler’s airflow is vital to keeping temperatures down and stable.
Even if you are cooling all the components in your case, they will still generate heat. Heat will build up in the case (and around your radiators), increasing the ambient case temperature and reducing your radiator’s cooling efficiency.
Bleeding your water cooling system takes patience and can often be frustrating but getting every air bubble out of the loop. Still, it’s an essential step if you want consistent temperatures.
It’s not uncommon for there to be a +/- 10*c temperature difference between cores if there is air trapped in the loop or there is not enough (or too much) thermal compound.
There are a few tips that can help bleed your loop easier and reduce the beads of sweat accumulating on your brow. Bleeding your water loop does not have to be a stressful experience if you are pre-armed with some tips!
Over the years of building and hundreds of hours spent on forums, one thing I have consistently read is you should never mix metals. This is because they can react with each other causing galvanic corrosion, while it’s not a huge problem with modern loops you should definitely learn a little about it..
The result of galvanic corrosion in a water cooling loop can be devastating, causing irreversible damage to your water cooling loop and your PC components.
Putting your custom PC water cooling loop together for the first time can seem like a daunting thing, but it is not and quite straightforward when you know how. As with all things, organization is the key.
Depending on what water block you brought, you may or may not have to construct it. My EKWB Supreme-HF come pre-constructed for me however, it did come with instructions so you can do it yourself just in case you need to clean it in the future.
When attaching your barbs, make sure they all include their rubber washers. Sometimes they go astray in the manufacturing process; if one is missing, the loop will spring a leak.
Before rushing ahead and putting everything in the case, it’s always handy to attach the brackets and the CPU block to the motherboard (and other components, if applicable). Your knuckles do end up feeling the full extent of the case’s wrath if you try to attach them when the motherboard is already mounted. It also allows you to evenly fasten the CPU block to the motherboard resulting in a perfect thermal compound application.
If you have a slimline radiator such as Hardware Labs Black-ice 2 stealth, this step is not as important. Still, if you have a really thick radiator, it can be fiddly to get the motherboard mounted, especially if you are mounting it on the inside top of your case.
Go ahead and get that bad boy mounted!
Depending on what reservoir and pump you bought, they may or may not be combined. Your job is to get the pump and reservoir both secured into place, visually plan where your tubes will go and try not to have them extend across the case.
It reduces the flow in the system and takes longer for cool water to return to the CPU.
IMPORTANT! If you are using a 5’25 drive bay reservoir, make sure to leave yourself enough clearance to fill it up
If you want to learn more, please visit our website Custom Cooling Systems Manufacturers.
With all the bulky stuff installed in the case, now is a great time to install all of your components, don’t worry about tubing; that is the next step!
If you are using acrylic tubing, take your time. It is not forgiving if you cut your tubing too short not only do you waste money, but the immense time you spent heating and bending the tubing.
Remember the tip before about how important leak testing is? I will say it just one more time – Don’t skip this step.
Remove your PC components out of the case and gently rest them on an anti-static bag on top of your motherboard box for now. Fill up the reservoir and use the paperclip trick to start the pump; remember to keep the reservoir high in the loop and make sure no air enters the loop.
You may need to turn the pump on and off a few times to force air through the system, and it allows all the smaller bubbles to accumulate into bigger bubbles allowing them to pass through the loop easier.
When the pump stops making a gurgling sound, the water-cooling loop is full, but it still helps to rock the case gently to move any stubborn bubbles.
So 24 hours have passed, and no leaks have sprung. Great news! You can now put your PC components back into your case, add thermal compound to the CPU and secure the block in place.
Remember, even after you have leak tested and put your components in, it is always wise to monitor the situation for an hour.
Ensure all your barbs are tight and not freely moving around. It’s still possible to dislodge barbs.
There is a lot to learn initially when your start out water cooling but once you have done it once it’s easy to do it again. With the above PC water cooling guide you should now know enough to go and build you’re own just remember:
Do you think I missed something out of this custom water cooling guide? Let me know in the comments, and I will make sure I get it amended right away.
Don’t forget to come and show off your custom water cooling builds in the comments section below.
In today’s fast-paced technological world, efficient thermal management is crucial for the performance and longevity of electronic devices. Whether it's a high-performance gaming PC, industrial machinery, or advanced aerospace systems, overheating can lead to reduced efficiency, hardware failure, and even safety hazards. This is where custom cooling fans come into play.
Unlike off-the-shelf cooling solutions, custom cooling fans are engineered to meet specific requirements, offering superior performance, durability, and adaptability. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll explore:
What Are Custom Cooling Fans?
Key Design Considerations
Benefits of Custom Cooling Fans
Applications Across Industries
Future Trends in Cooling Technology
By the end of this article, you’ll have a deep understanding of why custom cooling solutions are essential for modern engineering challenges.
Custom cooling fans are specialized cooling solutions designed to meet unique thermal management needs. Unlike standard fans, which come in fixed sizes, speeds, and airflow capacities, custom fans are tailored based on factors such as:
Size and Form Factor – Designed to fit specific enclosures or devices.
Airflow and Static Pressure – Optimized for efficient heat dissipation.
Noise Levels – Engineered for quiet operation in noise-sensitive environments.
Material and Durability – Built to withstand harsh conditions (e.g., high temperatures, dust, moisture).
Power Efficiency – Customized to balance cooling performance with energy consumption.
These fans are commonly used in industries where standard cooling solutions fall short, such as aerospace, medical devices, automotive, and high-performance computing.
Designing a custom cooling fan involves several critical factors to ensure optimal performance:
CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) – Determines how much air the fan can move.
Static Pressure – Important for pushing air through dense heat sinks or restricted spaces.
dB Levels – Critical for consumer electronics and medical devices.
Blade Design – Aerodynamic blades reduce turbulence and noise.
Voltage & Current Ratings – Must match the device’s power supply.
Brushless DC (BLDC) Motors – More efficient and longer-lasting than brushed motors.
IP Ratings – Dustproof and waterproof capabilities for industrial use.
Thermal Resistance – Ability to operate in extreme temperatures.
Sleeve Bearings – Cost-effective but less durable.
Ball Bearings – Higher lifespan, ideal for continuous operation.
Fluid Dynamic Bearings (FDB) – Ultra-quiet and long-lasting.
PWM Control – Allows dynamic speed adjustment.
Thermal Sensors – Automatically adjusts fan speed based on temperature.
Why choose a custom cooling solution over a standard fan? Here are the key advantages:
Tailored airflow and pressure for specific cooling needs.
Better heat dissipation, improving device reliability.
Designed to fit exact dimensions, avoiding wasted space.
Built with industrial-grade materials for harsh environments.
Lower power consumption with optimized motor designs.
Custom blade shapes and motor controls reduce unwanted sound.
Scalable designs that can adapt to future upgrades.
Custom cooling fans are used across various industries:
Gaming PCs & Servers – High-performance cooling for CPUs and GPUs.
Data Centers – Efficient cooling to prevent server overheating.
Battery Cooling – Essential for EV battery longevity.
Infotainment Systems – Prevents overheating in dashboards.
MRI Machines – Requires silent and reliable cooling.
Portable Medical Equipment – Compact and efficient thermal solutions.
Avionics Cooling – Must withstand extreme temperatures and vibrations.
Military Drones – Lightweight yet powerful cooling systems.
Robotics – Prevents motor overheating.
Manufacturing Equipment – Ensures continuous operation.
As technology advances, cooling solutions are evolving with innovations such as:
Graphene-based fans for better heat dissipation.
Smart fans that learn usage patterns for optimal cooling.
Micro-fans for ultra-compact devices.
Energy-efficient and recyclable fan components.
Combining liquid cooling with advanced fan designs.
Custom cooling fans play a vital role in modern engineering, offering tailored solutions that standard fans cannot provide. From high-performance computing to aerospace applications, these fans ensure efficiency, durability, and optimal thermal management.
As technology continues to push boundaries, the demand for smarter, more efficient cooling solutions will only grow. Whether you're an engineer, a tech enthusiast, or a business looking for reliable thermal management, investing in custom cooling fans is a smart choice for long-term performance.
Want more information on Evaporative Condenser? Feel free to contact us.