By slowing the transfer of heat between your house and the outdoors, insulation helps keep your living space cooler in the summer and toastier in the winter—all while shrinking your energy bills. Adding insulation to a typical home’s attic, flooring, basement, and crawl spaces can lower total energy costs by an average of 11 percent if you also plug unwanted air leaks.
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That’s partly because 9 out of 10 homes in the U.S. are under-insulated, according to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), with older residences especially likely to need the extra care. Knowing what sort of insulation to use and where and how to install it for the best results can be tricky.
We’re here to guide you through the process.
Because warm air rises, the attic is the best place to start, particularly for those in colder climates. But any living space that’s adjacent to the outdoors or, say, a transitional space such as a garage can benefit from insulation, creating a better thermal barrier around your home.
Ideally, you want a barrier that prevents the flow of air in and out, too. That means putting sealing around windows and door frames, recessed lighting, the joints of HVAC ducts, and the entrance to the attic, among other common trouble spots. You can search for leaks yourself or hire an energy auditor and then make things snug with relatively inexpensive caulking, weather stripping, foam sealant, or foam gaskets.
Other high-priority areas for insulation generally include exterior walls, basements, crawl spaces, roofs, and floors above unfinished spaces. Here are some signs that your insulation may need an upgrade: high energy bills, varying temperatures across rooms, routinely frozen pipes, pest problems, floors and walls that are cold or damp to the touch, and ice dams on the lower portion of your roof.
If the snow on your roof melts much faster than the snow on your neighbor’s roof, you likely need more attic insulation. You don’t have to wait for the next snowstorm, though, to make the right call—attic insulation is valuable in every season.
It’s difficult to tackle any insulation project without first understanding the concept of R-value, which measures the ability of insulation to resist the transfer of heat. The higher the R-value, the more powerfully the material in the product insulates. Every option—from fiberglass rolls to blown-in cellulose—displays its R-value on the packaging, allowing you to calculate the total R-value reached in a specific area of your home.
We’re talking simple addition: Say you buy one layer of R-19 fiberglass batting and stack another layer of R-30 fiberglass batting on top. That gives you a total R-value of R-49 in that space. You can even calculate the R-value of existing insulation by measuring its depth, noting the style of insulation (see below), and then finding the typical R-value per inch of that material. Say you find 14 inches of blown-in cellulose insulation, which has a typical R-value of around R-3.5 per inch, in your attic. That means your attic is insulated to about R-49, or 14 x 3.5. Keep in mind that you can add up the R-values of different types of insulation.
So what’s the ideal R-value for the attic in your house? That’s largely a matter of geography. You want to find out what climate zone you reside in and then look at the recommended R-value. In balmy South Florida, for example, installing one layer of R-30 fiberglass insulation in an attic is considered sufficient. But in wintry Wisconsin, you may want to add R-60 insulation to a previously uninsulated attic, requiring you to stack two layers of R-30 fiberglass batting.
Insulation comes in a variety of styles, each with its own strengths and weaknesses.
To start, you may want to consider the ideal structure. Batting insulation, for example, comes in flat, precut blankets of different sizes and thicknesses, allowing you to simply lay, stack, or fit it between the joists, studs, and rafters in ceilings, floors, and walls. Insulation sold in barrel-like rolls must be unspooled and cut to fit using a utility knife. It’s fairly easy to do but does require a little extra effort.
All in all, batts and rolls are versatile, easy to install, and relatively inexpensive. You’ll find them at almost any home improvement store.
By comparison, loose-fill—or blown-in—insulation requires equipment that you can rent from a home improvement store. Often made of unstructured fiberglass or cellulose, loose-fill fits snugly in odd-shaped holes and insulates hard-to-access wall cavities with relative ease. But if not packed densely enough, it’s more prone to settling over time, lowering its effectiveness. Loose-fill insulation can also be trickier to remove or shift around when you need to access the space.
Your next big decision has to do with the thermal materials used in the insulation you’re considering. Options vary based on your needs, including budget, the R-value, the size and shape of the area you plan to insulate, and factors such as the space’s moisture levels. Here are the pros and cons of the most common insulation materials.
Pros: Fiberglass insulation—made of molten glass that’s been spun or blown into fibers that trap air and slow heat transfer—is by far the most common choice, making up about 70 percent of the insulation market. It’s inexpensive, easy to install, and versatile. It comes in batts, rolls, and loose-fill style.
Cons: It has a modest R-value and is more permeable to air than, say, spray foam insulation, so effective sealing before insulation is critical. While the fiberglass particles in some new products are less troublesome than those of old, they still can cause irritation to your eyes, skin, and respiratory system. So it’s good to wear goggles, gloves, full-coverage clothing, and a respirator when installing or handling the materials.
Typical R-value: R-3 to R-4 per inch of thickness, though high-density fiberglass can go higher.
Where commonly used: Many places in a house, including attics, walls, floors, and basements.
Cost: $0.30-$1.50 per square foot, on average
Pros: Cellulose insulation, made of recycled paper and wood products, is typically offered in the loose-fill format. It conforms easily to unusually shaped spaces and hard-to-reach crevices, making it particularly handy for use inside finished walls or attics where you may want to insulate around pipes or HVAC equipment. It’s typically treated with the mineral borate to improve fire and pest resistance.
Cons: The material is more prone to retaining moisture and settling over time if not packed densely enough, which may reduce its effectiveness and require you to replace it. It can also be very dusty, so you’ll want to wear a respirator while installing it.
Typical R-value: 3.1 to 3.8 per inch of thickness.
Where commonly used: Attics and wall cavities.
Cost: $0.60-$2.30 per square foot, on average
Pros: Foam board, aka rigid foam, is made from fibrous materials or plastic foam that has been shaped into stiff boards. It has a high insulating value relative to its thickness. It’s also particularly moisture- and pest-resistant, making it a good choice for basements, crawl spaces, and exterior walls. There are three main types: polyiso, which has the highest R-value; extruded polystyrene (XPS), which is particularly moisture-resistant; and expanded polystyrene (EPS), which is often the cheapest.
Cons: Foam board insulation can be harder to install snugly in unusually shaped spaces, leaving gaps for air to flow. To create an effective air and moisture seal, you need to tape all seams between the boards. This option also tends to be pricier.
Typical R-value: R-3.8 and R-6.8 per inch of thickness, depending on the type.
Where commonly used: Basement and crawl space walls, and as continuous insulation on a house’s exterior.
Cost: $0.25-$2 per board foot, on average
Pros: Once sprayed, polyurethane foam sets, expands, and hardens. It’s admirably airtight—often negating the need for additional sealing—and moisture-proof, making it perfect for hard-to-fill nooks and crannies. The open-cell option has an R-value comparable to fiberglass, but closed-cell foam is denser, more rigid, and more moisture-resistant, with a higher R-value.
Cons: Closed-cell spray foam almost always requires professional installation. You and your family must stay away from your house for at least 24 hours as it cures. While you can find environmentally friendly options, many closed-cell spray foams use blowing agents that deplete the ozone layer and contribute to global warming.
Typical R-value: R-3.2 to R-7.5 per inch of thickness.
Where commonly used: Inside unfinished wall cavities, attics, and basements, and as continuous insulation on a house’s exterior.
Cost: $1-$2 per square foot, on average
Attic
The attic is where you’ll get the biggest return on your investment. It’s also one of the easiest areas to tackle on your own. Start by installing insulation between the joists that run along an unfinished floor. You can even add more on top of what’s there. (If the existing insulation is faced—meaning it has a moisture barrier attached to it—you don’t want the layer you add to be faced, too.) Aim for at least 13 to 14 inches of attic insulation if you live in a warmer climate and 16 to 18 inches in colder climates, assuming an insulation value around R-3. One good general rule: You should have enough insulation to cover the floor joists, making them no longer visible.
Adding insulation to the living space of a finished home can get pricey, sometimes requiring professional help to remove and replace drywall or exterior siding. To determine how well your walls are insulated, you can cut holes in the drywall or use a thermal imaging camera. Blown-in fiberglass or cellulose insulation and spray foam are common choices for wall cavities. They can be used in conjunction with foam board sheathing on the exterior. Insulating interior walls can help with soundproofing and confining space heating to certain areas of the home. It’s also beneficial in condos or apartments that share a wall with a unit that sits empty or unconditioned.
Basements can account for about 25 percent of a dwelling’s heat loss. One way to counter that is by insulating the walls and ceiling with options like foam board, fiberglass-faced batting, or spray foam. To avoid moisture problems, check for wet walls and water on the floor before starting and address any large drainage issues.
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If you’re using insulation other than XPS rigid foam or spray foam, consider adding some sort of vapor barrier as well. This prevents the movement and accumulation of moisture, which can degrade insulation, cause mold and mildew, reduce air quality, and damage the structural integrity of your home. You can install vapor barrier sheets, often made of plastic, foil, or silicone, alongside the insulation or go with “faced” or “kraft” insulation, which has a built-in vapor barrier. Either way, the vapor barrier typically faces whichever side of the structure is warmer.
Any crawl space beneath the ground floor is another prime spot for heat transfer. In some cases, the floor above it has sheathing that may conceal pre-existing insulation. You can install more on the space’s ceiling and walls. Once again, addressing moisture and potential water drainage issues first is key. Some people opt for what’s known as a crawl space “encapsulation,” which typically involves the installation of a vapor barrier around the entire space for a more moisture-proof seal.
How Much Insulation Do You Need?
This depends on where you live, the suggested R-value for specific areas of your home, and the size of the space. But it’s pretty easy to figure out: The Department of Energy offers a handy map organized into climate zones. Once you identify your climate zone, you can find the recommended R-value for common insulation projects. For example, an uninsulated attic should end up between R-30 and R60, depending on your region.
Once you know your target R-value, you can use the R-values provided for insulation products to plot out your project. For example, if you’re installing fiberglass batting in your attic that provides a total R-value of 30, you would need to put down two layers to reach R-60—plenty for a cold climate. Next, you calculate how many batts, rolls, or bags of loose-fill you need by measuring the total square footage of the space.
On the bright side, insulation brings a significant return on investment by reducing what you spend on heating and cooling—the two biggest slices of your energy bill. As we mentioned, sealing and insulating a home saves around 11 percent on total energy expenses—or around $200 a year when looking at the most recent data on average U.S. household energy expenses.
If you spend $700 on insulation, you will likely get a return on your investment in a little over three years while reaping the benefits in comfort on day one. The colder the climate you live in and the less insulation you start with, the higher your savings will be. The federal government and many state and local governments and utilities offer rebate programs and tax incentives on home insulation. You can claim a 30 percent federal tax credit, up to $1,200 per year, for certain insulation and weatherization upgrades, including material and labor costs. A number of other incentives are available via state governments and local utilities.
A professional home energy audit is a relatively cheap way to determine precisely where your home needs more insulation. It can pinpoint air leaks that need patching first, too. You can find a certified energy auditor through your utility company, state and local government agencies, or resources like this Residential Energy Services Network directory. Some insulation professionals offer a preliminary home energy audit as part of an installation package. The Department of Energy recommends that a pro auditor conduct a blower door test and a thermographic test. Energy audits are eligible for a 30 percent federal tax credit, up to $150.
The EPA recommends contractors who have been vetted by experts like the Building Performance Institute, Owen Corning’s Certified Energy Expert program, or its own Home Performance Program. Your local utility may also provide a list of vetted experts. Make sure that whoever you hire has insurance, a license to work in your state, and the training to complete your specific installation project.
It’s good to have at least three contractors provide cost estimates. Ask them questions, like whether they plan to seal air leaks first, take extra steps like insulating your attic’s hatch, and have the equipment needed to insulate an older home. And once the project is complete, monitor your energy bill, as well as indicators like temperature disparity across rooms, to see if the work was sufficient. If the savings aren’t substantial—or your home remains uncomfortable in the hottest and coldest parts of the year—it may be time to add insulation to another part or bring in another professional to complete the job. A well-done insulation project should make your home more comfortable (and save you money) year-round.
Have you ever walked into your garage and felt like you were in a sauna or a freezer because of the weather? Or has your energy bill been going up lately because you cannot get your house to stay warm or cool? Well, you might have missed a house comfort and energy-saving hero: garage door weatherstripping. Yes, that is right. That strip of material lining the edges of your garage door is more than just a finishing touch. Additionally, getting the right weatherstripping material for your garage door can make a difference.
This blog will guide you on how to pick the best materials to use for garage door weatherstripping. Whether you live in a place with scorching summers, cold winters, or both, this will help you make the best choice. Let us get started.
Garage door weatherstripping is about sealing the edges and moving parts of garage doors with specific materials. It keeps out air, water, dust, and bugs from getting in. For the most part, it helps keep the garage dry, clean, and safe. It also saves energy by keeping indoor air from escaping, which cuts down on utility bills. In a general sense, it protects everything inside the garage from damage and wear. This simple step makes a big difference in both protecting your belongings and making your home more energy-efficient.
When weatherstripping your garage, you can choose among different materials. Each has its properties and works best with certain garage door types and situations. Listed below are the best materials used in garage door weatherstripping:
Many use rubber for garage door weatherstripping because it is durable and flexible. It can fit on irregular surfaces and does a great job of keeping air and water out. EPDM (ethylene propylene diene monomer) rubber, in particular, is very resistant to UV rays and changes in temperature.
Pros: It is great for a lot of locations because rubber weather stripping stops drafts well. Often, it comes in self-adhesive strips for a quick DIY project, making installation a breeze.
Cons: Rubber can break down over time, especially in cold temperatures or when it comes in contact with oils and other substances. That could mean frequent garage weather stripping replacements.
Vinyl is a man-made material that is strong and does not easily get damaged by water or wear. This material makes it another popular choice for weatherstripping.
Advantages: It works well in many temperature ranges and is especially resistant to water, perfect for areas where it is humid. Also, vinyl weather stripping is durable and can last for a few years before it needs to be replaced.
Disadvantages: It is less durable than rubber or silicone. Vinyl can become less flexible in intense cold weather, which could make it less useful as a seal.
This material stands out when it comes to durability and effectiveness in harsh weather.
Pros: Silicone weather stripping stays flexible and seals well over time, even when the temperature changes and UV light hits it. It works very well as a shield against air and water getting in.
Cons: It is usually more expensive than rubber or vinyl. Also, it may need to be installed by a professional to get the best fit.
This material, often made from polyethylene or polyurethane, is effective and affordable when it comes to sealing garage doors.
Advantages: It is easy to install in a variety of gaps and spaces because it is light and flexible. This material also provides good insulation for your garage.
Disadvantages: It depends on the type of foam weather stripping you use. Some types may compress or break down faster than others, meaning you will need to change them more often.
Felt, usually made from wool or polyester fiber, is one of the oldest materials used for weatherstripping. You often see this material in older homes, which gives them a traditional look.
Pros: Felt is cost-effective and easy to install, making it a good option for budget-conscious homeowners. It comes in different thicknesses and densities and can be useful for stopping drafts.
Cons: It is not as durable or resistant to weather as some other materials. Felt might not be the best choice for places with extreme weather.
These factors should help you choose the best weatherstripping material for your needs:
The weather where you live is one of the most important things to think about when choosing the best material. Certain materials work better in different weather, so choose one that can handle the local temperature.
In Cold Climates: When it comes to extreme temperatures, silicone weather stripping is more durable and forms a tighter seal. On the other hand, rubber will crack and lose its flexibility in very cold weather.
For Hot and Dry Climates: Vinyl weather stripping is long-lasting and does not absorb water. They are great for use in hot, dry places and can stand up to both direct sunlight and sudden rainstorms.
In Coastal or High Humidity Areas: Silicone is good for homes near the coast or places that are prone to have a lot of dampness.
The weatherstripping material you choose may also depend on the type of garage door you have. Note that some materials might stick to metal doors better than others might stick to wooden or fiberglass doors better.
For Metal Doors: Rubber and vinyl weather stripping can make a good seal for metal doors when it comes to flexibility and sturdiness. Silicone is also a good choice because it seals better than other materials.
On Wooden Doors: Installing foam or felt weather stripping on wooden doors is easy to install and affordable. However, silicone or high-quality rubber might be better for a longer-lasting answer, even though they cost more.
Your budget and personal preferences are very important in making the final decision. Remember, silicone works best in a wide range of weather and regions, but its higher price point might not be affordable for everyone. Vinyl, foam, and rubber, on the other hand, are popular choices among homes because they are both cheap and effective.
Choosing the right material for garage door weatherstripping is an important decision that helps keep your home comfortable and saves energy. If you are not sure what is best for you, it is best to ask a garage door professional. A pro will help you choose the right material for your garage door and install it properly, saving you time and money.
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