Bailey, I have only ever used the heat activated type. I am a tad old school with this type of stuff, the more involved the process and the more complicated it is, it must be good right! But no, I have never used the PSA type, I wish I had a better answer for you, but I can say this, if you are seeing mixed bag reviews about it, and from my experience the heat treated type last forever, I may re-direct my mind to the heat treated. If you plan on doing much of this, you could invest in an edge banding heat iron like this: They run about 40 bucks.
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With the heat treated edge banding the glue as you know melts, and absorbs into the edge grain or end grain and pulls the backing of the edge banding in to the material, creating a lasting bond. With the PSA it's just peel and stick, it's all surface adhesion, nothing soaks in. Just my humble opinion.
I have done a fair amount of edge banding on a number of projects over the years with all of them using the iron on version. I have yet to have any of them peel off. I made the mistake of using my wife's iron and ruined it with getting some melted glue on it, so I had to go buy her a new one. The funny thing though is that while my wife said it was HER iron, I have always been the one over our 30+ years of marriage that does the ironing as she has a tendency to burn things and can't iron a straight crease. Just go to your your local Wal-Mart and pick up a cheap iron for less than $20. FYI DO NOT USE STEAM SETTING (don't ask me how I know this)
The advantage of using iron on edge banding is that while the glue is still hot you can slide it a bit back and forth to keep it centered. With the peel and stick kind you have no wiggle room. Typical rolled edged banding will be labeled with a specific width (1/2", 3/4", 1", etc) but will, most of the time, be a bit wider to allow trimming of the edges flush. You should also get a edge banding trimmer flush trim the material as opposed to just using a box cutter or sharpe chisel. They have single edge ones that are inexpensive and you can get one at Home Depot, Lowe's or your local Rockler or Woodcraft store. They also have two edge flush trimmers but they will be a bit more money.
Here are links to 2 different types online at Lowe's and Woodcraft
http://www.lowes.com/pd_--_0__?productId=&store_code=&cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-LumberAndBuildingMaterials-_-ConstructionBoards-_-:BAND-IT&CAWELAID=&kpid=&CAWELAID=&k_clickID=243b31c6-b54d-4ab9-a04b-dd84ad6ff412
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product//WR-Double-Edge-Trimmer.aspx?gclid=CJKfxPa6wMoCFZYrvQodweMCwg
It goes without saying that using the right adhesive for the job is essential to ensure your edge banding goes on and stays on, and that you don’t make a mess of your project. Using the wrong glue in the wrong way could spell disaster!
Here’s our complete guide on how to use edge banding adhesives to help make sure you don’t land in a sticky spot…
This is the crucial bit. Firstly, you need to know about the different types of adhesives and which projects and materials they are a best fit for. You can use glue pellets or cartridges depending on which your edge banding machine is compatible with.
Most edge banding is applied with hot melt glue. The two main choices for hot melt glues are EVA (Ethylene Vinyl Acetate) and PUR (Polyurethane). Each has its advantages and disadvantages depending on your project and the material you are working with.
EVA Adhesive is a multi-purpose hot melt glue used in a wide range of applications and suitable for pretty much all edge banding including PVC, melamine, ABS, acrylic and wood veneer. It’s at the more affordable end of the market, has a fairly standard water and heat resistance, but is easy to work with and to clean up after.
It can be repeatedly re-melted, handy when refilling glue compartments on your edgebander in between jobs and for cleaning. This also means it is sensitive to high temperatures, so be wary of using it for furniture or worktops that will be exposed to excessive heat. It’s pretty flexible, helping to reduce the risk of your edge banding cracking or peeling with the normal movement of wood and boards.
You can get filled or unfilled EVA hot melt glues for edge banding. The traditional EVA adhesive is filled, so called because it has added minerals that reduce annoying ‘stringing’ and make it easier to work with. Unfilled hot melt adhesives, however, can be applied thinner to give a tighter joint. It just comes down to preference for your working style and the practicalities of the job you are working on.
Polyurethane (or PUR) based hot melt glues harden when dry and cannot be re-melted. They form an incredibly strong bond quickly, meaning little room for mistakes and the need to work fast. Some can set in seconds, with full cure time being 24 hours.
PUR hot melt glue creates a bond that’s highly resistant to moisture and heat up to 150 degrees. The glue line itself is more resistant to cleaning agents, making it a good choice for bathroom or kitchen products.
Because PUR adhesives bond by ‘moisture cure’, meaning they harden via a reaction with moisture in the air and the product they are applied to, they have to be stored in sealed containers.
It can get a little messy, as it expands and slightly foams as it cures. Unlike water based glues, which soak into the materials being bonded together, a PUR adhesive sits on the surface.
This type of adhesive is high strength but also flexible (it can be set hard or remain rubbery). Go for this in projects using hard to bind materials such as affixing porous to non-porous. It is generally a little more expensive than EVA hot melt glue, but you don’t need to use as much PUR to get a really successful bond.
Top Tip: Make sure you don’t put too much glue on or you’ll end up with an untidy bondline. Used correctly, PUR hot melts should give a pleasing, thin bondline.
Low melt adhesives, as the name suggests, work at a lower temperature so are safer to use, with reduced risk of burns. As a result, they are great for working with softer materials that could be damaged by a higher temperature, such as foam or polystyrene. Higher temperature hot melt adhesives are your best bet for bonding edge banding, but it’s worth knowing about the whole family of glues available to you.
Contact adhesives (also known as contact cement) are rubber based, fast acting glues that create a strong, flexible bond. Very effective on non-porous materials that other glue won’t stick. It is applied to both surfaces and allowed to air dry for around 20 minutes before sticking. It bonds almost immediately, so again, you can’t hang about and there’s little room for error. Often used for bonding large surface areas of wood veneer or plastic laminate to boards, contact adhesives can also be used very effectively used for edge banding.
Edge banding is best applied using an edge banding machine. The glue compartment is filled with the appropriate glue and the machine glues and rolls the edging onto your boards simultaneously, for a precise finish that stays in place for the lifetime of your product.
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Machines range from small home versions to industrial sizes capable of edging tens of metres of panel at a time. Check with your manufacturer which type of glue is compatible with your machine and whether to use pellets or cartridges.
Make sure you keep your equipment clean and in good working order and that the edges of your boards are clear and ready for application. Here are a few top tips for perfectly applying your edging adhesive:
As with any aspect of production, using adhesive (particularly hot glues) requires a few safety precautions. Follow these simple tips and procedures to avoid any unfortunate accidents:
Once you’ve safely applied your adhesive and your edging is perfectly in place, there are a couple of other things left to do to ensure everything stays in tip-top condition. The first of these is cleaning up after the application process.
Always clean your equipment after use, especially where PUR glue has been used in your edge bander machine. As it cannot be re-melted, it will harden inside your equipment if it is not completely purged and cleaned – pretty impossible to get off.
As EVA glue does re-melt, if you’re doing several jobs one after another, it might not be necessary to clean after every single use, possibly just when the glue tank is empty. Always check the directions for use with your edge bander machine. No-one really wants to spend hours cleaning up glue, so make life easier for yourself and use specialist cleaning products for the adhesive you’re using.
Before delving into the adhesive selection, it’s important to understand the different edge banding materials available. Here are the most common types:
PVC: Highly durable and resistant to heat, PVC edge banding is great for high-traffic areas.
ABS: Similar to PVC in durability but more eco-friendly, ABS edge banding is an excellent alternative for those seeking a greener option.
Wood Veneer: This is an attractive and natural-looking option, ideal for high-quality furniture and cabinetry.
Melamine: This affordable option comes in a variety of colours and styles, but is not as durable as PVC or ABS.
Acrylic: Known for its glossy, high-end look, acrylic edge banding is resistant to scratches and UV light.
Sometimes things may not go as smoothly as expected. Here are some common edge banding issues and how to solve them:
Glue Squeeze Out: Too much adhesive can cause squeeze out. Make sure to adjust the amount of adhesive being used or check the application pressure.
Peeling or Loose Edges: This issue may be due to inadequate glue, faulty machine settings or improper preparation of the material. Review your process to identify any shortcomings.
Bubbling: Can be caused by using the wrong type of adhesive or applying too much heat. Adjust your settings accordingly.
Discoloration: Using an adhesive that is not suited to your material can lead to discoloration. Choose your adhesive carefully.
In the modern world, sustainability matters. Different adhesives have different environmental impacts. For example, water-based adhesives are generally more environmentally friendly than solvent-based ones. Understanding the environmental impact of the adhesives you choose can help you make more eco-friendly decisions.
Sometimes, your project requirements might outgrow your current machinery. If you’re experiencing frequent issues or if your edge bander can’t handle the volume or complexity of your work, it may be time for an upgrade.
By keeping these factors in mind, you can ensure you choose the right adhesive for your edge banding needs.
If that all sounds like hard work, you can take advantage of our Cut & Edge service, where we provide your boards and edges glued and ready as a finished product.
If you want to learn more, please visit our website Edge Strips.