The Benefits of Using Weatherstripping

If your electric bill is high or you’re uncomfortable in your home, you may need weatherstripping. It’s the plastic, rubber, foam, or metal barriers around your doors and windows that keep cold and hot air outside where it belongs. You may not notice them, but they have a big impact. Read this post to learn how to tell if you need weatherstripping.

Link to I-ECO

Why You Need Weatherstripping

It may seem like your doors and windows do all the work. You can even purchase both of them in models that offer greater protection from the elements, but they don’t do their job alone. Weatherstripping seals the tiny gaps around windows and doors so the air in your home that you’re carefully trying to keep comfortable stays inside at the temperature you want. 

Every exterior door and openable window needs weatherstripping, including those leading to garages and attics. Windows that don’t open need caulking, which works the same way as weatherstripping but doesn’t have to allow for window movement.

 The benefits of weatherstripping include:

• A 30-40% reduction in loss of heated and cooled air.
• Helping the environment by using less electricity to make up for the air loss.
• Your doors and windows opening and closing properly.
• Protecting your home’s insulation by keeping moisture outside.
• Enjoying a more comfortable home.

Weatherstripping can be damaged by moisture, wear and tear, or old age, and some types of weatherstripping wear out sooner than others.

When You Need Weatherstripping

The next important question is how to tell that you need new weatherstripping.

If your home is drafty, you need weatherstripping. If you’re mystified by an increase in your electric bill or you have to crank up the thermostat to achieve the temperature you want, your weatherstripping is probably worn out. You can test out these theories by taking a handheld dryer and blowing around the edges of the closed window or door. If you have someone else step outside and put their hand there and they can feel the hot air coming through, your weatherstripping is bad.

Damaged weatherstripping could interfere with a door or window’s functionality. If you struggle to open or close your window or weatherstripping is hanging, you need new weatherstripping to restore the look or functionality of your space.

Examine your door and window frames’ edges, the top, bottom, and sides. There should be metal, plastic, rubber, or foam attached where the frame meets the door or window. If these are missing or visibly damaged, you need new weatherstripping.

If you aren’t sure, you can ask a door and window specialist to come in and do a free estimate.

Call Cypress Door & Glass for your glass and door maintenance

Tension seal:

Self-stick plastic (vinyl) folded along length in a V-shape or a springy bronze strip (also copper, aluminum, and stainless steel) shaped to bridge a gap. The shape of the material creates a seal by pressing against the sides of a crack to block drafts.

Inside the track of a double-hung or sliding window, top and sides of door.Moderate; varies with material used.Durable, invisible when in place, very effective. Vinyl is fairly easy to install. Look of bronze works well for older homes.Surfaces must be flat and smooth for vinyl. Can be difficult to install, as corners must be snug. Bronze must be nailed in place (every three inches or so) so as not to bend or wrinkle. Can increase resistance in opening/closing doors or windows. Self-adhesive vinyl available. Some manufacturers include extra strip for door striker plate.

Felt:

Plain or reinforced with a flexible metal strip; sold in rolls. Must be stapled, glued, or tacked into place. Seals best if staples are parallel to length of the strip.

Around a door or window (reinforced felt); fitted into a door jamb so the door presses against it.LowEasy to install, inexpensive.Low durability; least effective preventing airflow. Do not use where exposed to moisture or where there is friction or abrasion. All-wool felt is more durable and more expensive. Very visible.

Reinforced foam:

Closed-cell foam attached to wood or metal strips.

Door or window stops; bottom or top of window sash; bottom of door.Moderately lowEffective sealer, scored well in wind tests, rigid.Can be difficult to install; must be sawed, nailed, and painted. Very visible. Manufacturing process produces greenhouse gas emissions.

Tape:

Nonporous, closed-cell foam, open-cell foam, or EDPM (ethylene propylene diene monomer) rubber.

Top and bottom of window sash; door frames; attic hatches and inoperable windows. Good for blocking corners and irregular cracks.Low

Extremely easy to install, works well when compressed, inexpensive. Can be reinforced with staples.

Durability varies with material used, but not especially high for all; use where little wear is expected; visible.

Rolled or reinforced vinyl:

Pliable or rigid strip gasket (attached to wood or metal strips.)

Door or window stops; top or bottom of window sash; bottom of a door (rigid strip only).Low to moderateEasy installation, low to moderate cost. Self-adhesive on pliable vinyl may not adhere to metal; some types of rigid strip gaskets provide slot holes to adjust height, increasing durability. Comes in varying colors to help with visibility.Visible

Door sweep:

Aluminum or stainless steel with brush of plastic, vinyl, sponge, or felt.

Bottom of interior side of in-swinging door; bottom of exterior side of exterior-swinging door.Moderate to highRelatively easy to install; many types are adjustable for uneven threshold. Automatically retracting sweeps also available, which reduce drag on carpet and increase durability.Visible. Can drag on carpet. Automatic sweeps are more expensive and can require a small pause once door is unlatched before retracting.

Magnetic:

Works similarly to refrigerator gaskets.

Top and sides of doors, double-hung and sliding window channels.HighVery effective air sealer.

Tubular rubber and vinyl:

Vinyl or sponge rubber tubes with a flange along length to staple or tack into place. Door or window presses against them to form a seal.

Around a door.Moderate to highEffective air barrier.Self-stick versions challenging to install.

Reinforced silicone:

Tubular gasket attached to a metal strip that resembles reinforced tubular vinyl

On a doorjamb or a window stop.Moderate to highSeals well.Installation can be tricky. Hacksaw required to cut metal; butting corners pose a challenge.

Door shoe:

Aluminum face attachment with vinyl C-shaped insert to protect under the door.

To seal space beneath door.Moderate to high.Sheds rain on the exterior, durable. Can be used with uneven opening. Some door shoes have replaceable vinyl inserts.
Fairly expensive; installation moderately difficult. May require door bottom planing.

Bulb threshold:

Vinyl and aluminum

Door thresholds.Moderate to highCombination threshold and weatherstrip; available in different heights.Wears from foot traffic; relatively expensive.

"Frost-brake" threshold:

Aluminum or other metal on exterior, wood on interior, with door-bottom seam and vinyl threshold replacement.

To seal beneath a door.Moderate to highThe use of different materials means less cold transfer. Effective.Moderately difficult to install, involves threshold replacement.

Fin seal:

Pile weatherstrip with plastic Mylar fin centered in pile.

For aluminum sliding windows and sliding glass doors.Moderate to highVery durable.Can be difficult to install.